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it brakes better and is quieter. Being a hard wearing pad, bed-in times can be as long as 1000 miles and drivers must be patient until the pad takes up the shape of their disc (brake rotor). This is a truly impressive fast road pad for repeated heavy braking.It emits far less dust than semi-metallic pads and has been proven to stop a passenger car/sedan/sport compact/hot hatch 13 metres quicker than OEM pads from 100mph/160kph. Features EBC Brake-In surface coating which conditions rotor surface and accelerates pad bed-in. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with approx. 50-percent dust reduction.Most EBC Red Ceramic pads are approved to ECE R90 brake safety regulation.
There are TWO reasons our customers love Redstuff, First because they are the lowest dust pad we have encountered by reducing dust by 60-90-percent. Plus the minimal dust you see is very easily removed with a simple sponge wash as it contains no steel fibre particles as in ALL OTHER pads. Second they brake like an alligator right from cold (as good as Original pads or better) and just get better as they heat up.This material is a Synthetic Fiber based brake compound enhanced with ceramic particles. If you have previously tried EBC redstuff (pre-ceramic compound) this material is light years ahead. It lasts longer
Redstuff Ceramic Low Dust Brake Pads
Pad Dimensions: 135 x 67 x 20mm
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Yes. A series of firm slowdowns from moderate speed, without coming to a stop, lays an even layer of pad material on the rotor. Follow the maker's bed-in steps.
New pads on worn or grooved rotors bed poorly and can squeal; if the rotors are worn or lipped, replace both.
Not for a pad or rotor change. Calipers or lines open the system, so it has to be bled, and fresh fluid is the normal choice then.
Larger calipers and rotors need wheel clearance. The Part details list the minimum wheel size when the maker states it, and the maker's clearance template settles any doubt.
Usually incomplete bed-in, missing shims or anti-squeal paste, or an aggressive compound. Bed them in and check the hardware first.
Pads and rotors are a common home job with jack stands, a torque wrench and the right sockets. Calipers and lines need bleeding, so a shop is the safer choice if you have not bled brakes before.
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